BLT Market

BLT Market, the latest outpost in a string of restaurants bearing his namesake, chef Laurent Tourondel has again succeeded in bringing snob-worthy food to the masses in this casual bistro on Central Park South. Diners are greeted by a blackboard touting weekly specials like the kumquat mojito, which sets the tone for Tourondel’s heavy emphasis on seasonal and locally-grown produce. Strangely, down the left side of the menu is a listing of fish, meats, and vegetables currently in season, none of which was actually being served.

The pigs-in-a-blanket amuse boche was a playful greeting with a queer juxtaposition. Was it weird to be eating pigs-in-a-blanket at a meal costing a buck fifty? Yes. Was I going to not eat tender salty pork wrapped in flaky buttery puff pastry topped with briny sauerkraut? No. The bread was also especially noteworthy, served hot and crispy and cut with fresh pesto.

An interesting note about the menu at BLT Market is that all dishes are served a la carte. I chose the trumpet mushrooms with the black cod and it turned out to be a perfect pairing. The butteriness of the flaky fish went well with the, well, butteriness of the mushrooms, which literally were drowning in their own private pool of oil. Trumpet mushrooms are extremely dense and meaty, and this chewiness was an odd but interesting pairing with the delicate fish.

The fruity glazed duck paired with perfectly sautéed foie gras was like winning the fat jackpot. This dish was so flavorful and over-the-top with richness that it was hard to stomach more than a few bites. The accompanying garlic mashed potatoes were also a flavor explosion of super creamy goodness. I wouldn’t swear under oath that they were laden with a stick of butter, but to be able to taste them after the rest of the fatty dishes, they must have been.

The dessert list is also particularly interesting because of the focus on seasonal ingredients. I was so stuffed after the fat-laden meal that I had to decline dessert, but a late-night surprise was offered by the kitchen, and who am I to offend? So, I politely scarfed down the chocolate feuilletine rocky road, which boasted layers of chocolate and marshmallow so delightfully rich and decadent.

The casual atmosphere and easy sharing of a la carte dishes makes BLT Market a great date spot as well as a solid weeknight neighborhood choice. Just remind me how good it was when I have a heart attack at age 29.

LOCATION: 1430 6th Ave. at 59th St. in the Ritz Carlton

WINNERS: seasonal cocktails and entrees, casual bistro atmosphere

LOSERS: nonsensical menu, flavorless hamachi

COST: ~ $75 per person