There are some restaurants you visit because they get a lot of hype in the Times. Others you visit because it’s the trend du jour and you figure for two hundred bucks you have a decent chance of seeing a celebrity. Don’t go to I Sodi for either of those reasons. What you get at I Sodi are generous portions of traditional Italian recipes in an unpretentious atmosphere where the emphasis is on simple, good food and exceptional service without a lot of pretense. I Sodi lies on a well-traveled stretch of Christopher Street in the West Village, but it’s tucked away so well in an intimate little space, you’d barely know it was there. The sliding wood-framed doors and opaque window coverings give the restaurant a romantic and private ambiance.
The bar menu offers several takes on the classic negroni, a traditional Italian cocktail comprised of gin, vermouth, and bitters (usually Campari.) The bar was remarkable not only for the interesting cocktails but also because the professional service set the tone for the rest of the meal. Show me a waiter who shows up when you need him and leaves you alone when you don’t and has the wherewithal to know the difference and I’ll show you a happy customer every single time.
The wild boar tagliatelle was perfectly rich and meaty, although the half portion intended as a primi dish, was probably more than I could have eaten as a main course. Ditto for the spinach risotto, which was creamy and salty from the parmesan and just al dente enough. The contorni of fava bean fagoli was deliciously creamy and sweet. It’s not a regular on the menu, but should be. The highlight of the pig three way main course (as I like to call it) is the spiced-up sausage with just a touch of sage and nutmeg. The pork chop and rib were decent, but I was so stuffed by this point that I couldn’t really give them a fair shake on my palate.
I Sodi is a perfect date place that delivers solid service and earnest food without the pomp and circumstance you’ve come to expect in Manhattan.
LOCATION: 105 Christopher St. near Bleecker St.
COST: $60 per person
WINNERS: white bean fagoli side dish, cinghiale tagliatelle, service, seasonal menu
LOSERS: The place only seats about 35, so make a reservation
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