Apiary

If East Village newcomer Apiary were a dairy product, it would be half and half. Half great ideas, half terrible. The good news is that the best ideas were the entrees, so come late and leave early and you’ll be satisfied.

The ambience falls into the ‘great ideas’ category. The casual elegant theme was reflected in the sharply dressed waiters, neckties neatly tucked into crisp white shirts. The chrome tipped bare bulbs protruding from plastic chandelier-shaped sconces created a cool just-barely-goth vibe.

The wine list is solid and decently priced, with plenty of varied options by the glass and the list drawing heavily from California’s Central Coast and leaning heavily toward bigger bolder flavors. I can’t remember the last time I saw this many zinfandels on a menu (three offerings by the glass) but I approve. I. Heart. Zin. The lack of a full liquor license is a disappointment.

The first terrible idea was the grilled octopus appetizer. I get that octopus is supposed to be a bit chewy – its tentacles have suction cups attached to them for christsake – but this preparation was also fairly dry and the combination couldn’t be saved by the celery leaves which were the one saving grace about the dish.

The first good idea was the near-perfect preparation of the pork belly. The pickled cabbage bestowed a nice acidic pairing. I wish it was crispier.

The best dish on the menu is a photo finish between the Moroccan chicken served with couscous, an unlikely choice from a fairly mainstream American menu, and the bold slow-cooked rabbit served with both the legs and the Serrano ham-wrapped loin. Whoever made the octopus should take notes from the guy making the chicken. It was probably the moistest piece of white poultry meat I’ve ever had, and the sweet sauce accompanying should have been served with a sauce spoon so that you don’t miss a single bite of that sweet deliciousness. The tender rabbit loin was also a home run and the crispy brown butter spaetzle was a perfect fall accompaniment.

The goat cheese cheesecake left much to be desired with a sloppy presentation and dry texture. The goat cheese flavor was big and bold, but I wish I’d spent the calories on another piece of rabbit. It seems like Neil Manacle is still doing some experimentation with the menu, but I have a good feeling about this place based on the quality of the food they did get right.

LOCATION: 60 3rd Ave (bet. 10/11)
COST: ~ $43
WINNERS: Moroccan Chicken, Braised Rabbit, Lighting, Vast Selection of Zinfandel
LOSERS: No vodka, European toilets