Eatery

I give a lot of credit to restaurants who are successful at delivering exactly what they promise, provided it’s a decent idea and they keep the focus on the food. Eatery in Hell’s Kitchen keeps it real with a menu where you can understand all the words and wouldn’t be surprised to find any of the dishes as leftovers in your mom’s fridge.

All pretense was brushed aside in the creation of this comfort-food-heavy self-described “New American” where menu items recall childhood flavors and textures such as “Mac and Jack,” the unofficial house entrée topped with frizzled onions. I don’t know if I really agree with the “New American” tag, seeing as how our Moms have been making a lot of the dishes for generations and the influences are less “American” and more “hodgepodge of delicious flavors from all over the globe.”

The shrimp spring rolls were piping hot, which conveniently matched the black sesame dipping sauce that left tongues-a-blazing. I couldn’t really pick out the flavors of the individual ingredients inside – shrimp, banana, and eggplant – but I can say that the combination after being deep fried was a heavenly mess.

The white cheddar sauce atop the just-like-your-momma’s meatloaf was a tasty saving grace glazing the fairly bland loaf. The buttermilk mashed potatoes are definitely not Weight Watchers-approved, but pretty delicious and creamy.

The pork tenderloin was something that would have been acceptable for leftovers out of Mom’s fridge, but I expected more flavor from something professionally prepared. If I didn’t know the side was made of spuds, I’d have sworn the potato gratin was actually lasagna. Super cheesy. Super thin slices of potato, and super delish. Game on.

If you like fried, sweet, and delicious desserts, the churros served with tres leches sauce are a must-have. I’d actually come back just to have them.

The vibe is trendy casual; again, not trying to be something it’s not, but staying true to being a solid neighborhood choice at prices that won’t break the bank.

A lot of people might describe a rite of passage in domesticity as successfully recreating your mother’s meatloaf, and by that measure, Eatery has passed the test.

LOCATION: 798 Ninth Avenue (53rd St.)

COST: ~$30 per person

WINNERS: inventive cocktails, good value, tres leches churros

LOSERS: the website doesn’t list a chef’s name, which creeps me out a little. Is my mother secretly employed here?